Last modified:
Wednesday, May 29, 2002 6:05 AM
05/17/02- Hey, it's just the same old sameold and I might have been
content to leave my commentary as bad poetry, but maybe some tortured, drawn-out
prose should accompany those pics? Don't know which is more painful,
so you get both. Understand, I don't have much to say that I haven't said
before. This isn't an "inspired" project. It's gotten harder to
come up with those because I've made mostly everything I've wanted to make.
(and I still don't have a burning desire to make an Indiana Jones
or Boba Fett...) So this figure wasn't created knowing what kind of role
she'd play. This is just an exercise using BBI's "Perfect Body" figure as
a base, and to try out a few things. I was tempted to use lotsa parts from
Dragon's Svetlana figure since those would have made the job easier, but
PBs are cheap and reasonably available, so that's the primary incentive.
I just wish they were a little more perfect than they are. Oh darn...
I've opened that can of worms again! Sheesh!!! Aren't you done trashing
the poor Perfect Body figures yet? Arrrrghhh. Burn in Hell, heathen!!!
;^)
Before we get into that (and for the benefit of those who haven't
followed the progression of projects) I should mention that this is a rebuilding
of the figure according to a basic design that's been evolving for years--
it's not an attempt to simply alter the stock PB figure (the project starts
with a disassembled figure). This is an intense undertaking which can take
days or weeks of daily work, especially if you work a real job. The design
is based on the vintage-style elastic-tensioned body, with the adoption
of some modern improvements. The particular base figure used isn't really
that important-- the surface features are totally negotiable. The parts
of the figure that are important are the hinges and the precision
manufactured parts like the ball-jointed feet. Those would be very difficult
to recreate from scratch because of the precision involved, and also because
of the materials used in factory production. It's much easier to use a hinge
from a figure than it is to carve one out of a block of nylon. The rest
of the figure is just something to sculpt over, similar to using a styrofoam
core. Some figures have proportioning which needs less altering in certain
areas (which makes me happy because it saves time), but I haven't found
any yet that didn't need it somewhere. So that's what this is about...
As you know, I'm not a big fan of PB's replaceable megatits. Interesting
idea with some potential but it's the kind of non-essential thing that should
be done right, or not at all. (Having done three sets for "Gretchen
Gazongas", I believe that in the long run, one set of the right
boobs is enuf...) In addition to the points I've already made about this,
at the Men With Dolls forum, word is that they aren't very paintable due
to the type of plastic they're made of. Pfffftt...Strike 4. I'd already
decided to go with the traditional design and dealing with the weirdo replaceable
bodice design just took a little bit longer.
The PB's shoulder ball articulation deserves mention. Someone at the Men
With Dolls forum pointed out a solution for increasing their range, based
on the disassembly photos in my review. The solution involves slicing off
the limiter tab on the backside of each shoulder ball; these fit into a
trough on the inner molding of the back which prevents the shoulder balls
from rotating. Slicing the tabs off removes this limitation, as the short
edge of the shoulder ball can then be oriented in whichever direction you're
trying to pose the arms inward. It's not quite the way that Volk's version
works, but it's a worthy improvement-- and kudos to the guy with the insight
(sorry, I went back but couldn't find the post). I haven't embraced the
shoulder ball innovation (being undecided as to whether that extra articulation
is worth the cost to appearance) and my goal was to gut the PB and make
her conform to my design. So I haven't thought much about how the stock
PB figure could be improved (My earlier suggestion for fixing the click-stop
legs was meant to be sarcastic). Some things which I complained about in
my review could probably be fixed fairly easily: The "leg closure" design
defect could probably be fixed by grinding away some doll thigh/crotch meat.
Of course, the PB legs needed to be shortened too... just fit her bootfeet
if you need convincing. At this point, I don't know whether I'll use the
naked or boot feet for this figure. After making "Bunny's" thigh high boots
with the Takara bootfeet, I'm sold on their concept for that that kind of
thing-- boots that actually allow posing at the ankle? Cool. The BBI naked
feet need a little work anyway-- the sculpt is a little off (narrow in the
toes), and for a heavier figure, the rubbery feet introduce too much mush
for a solid standing pose. (The PBs are light so it's not much of an issue)
There are few things I hate worse in a figure than that, so I grinded out
the length of the soles and up to the hard plastic ball, drove a screw in
and filled the trough with putty. That noticibly improved the standing stability
of the figure.
The arms bugged me too-- the CG figure's elbows just look better. I'm
not talking about the seamline count, but about the sculpted contours: The
CG's silhouette of transition between upper arm and forearm looks more natural.
Ganged hinges tend to look too mechanical, with identical-looking hinge
sections of the upper and forearm. I tried to fix this through sculpting,
but wasn't entirely satisfied with the results. This figure definitely needs
to wear arm coverings.
I also wanted to shorten the arms. To do this right, both upper and forearm
needed to lose a short length. The upper arm wasn't a big deal--very straightforward.
The forearm was another matter. CG/PB hands have very long pins, and the
retaining notch is at the very end. This tells you where the rubber retainer
is located inside the forearm-- it's pretty high up there, located near
the elbow hinge. Ideally, you'd want to leave that assembly alone, which
means cutting the forearm after the pin ends. That leaves a fairly short
section of material before the hinge, some of which can be removed to shorten
the forearm. This is where the problem comes into play: After you've done
all this, how you gonna join the parts? The join needs to be strong to survive
flexing of the hinge. Superglue will work for maybe a few flexes before
it shears. Since the handpin retainer is right at the cutoff, there isn't
room inside to insert reinforcing rods between the sections. You can't do
it strictly with putty unless you don't mind Popeye arms. Hmmmmm... My solution
was to... sorry... I can't spoil a good one like this. This is one of those
cool customizing puzzles which forces you to practice your problem-solving
skills. It's not especially tricky or brilliant but I'll give you a clue
as to how I solved the problem: "...there isn't room inside to insert
reinforcing rods between the sections..."
The other thing that gave me fits was refining the facial features. I
decided that I didn't like the original sculpt, but trying to fix that took
a long time; resculpting and tweaking the nose, the eyes, the mouth, the
cheeks, the chin --and I'm still not entirely satisfied. And now Dan'l B.
tells me she looks like a CMT singer, Jo-Dee somebody... shudder
;^) Oh well... (So for Dan'l, here she is looking more sinister.) Apparently,
that kind of anguish isn't exclusive to doing facial likenesses; even generic
faces may need quite a bit of tweaking until you're either satisfied or
burned out... and then she ends up looking like someone you've never heard
of!
Sorry-- she never stood a chance of being a C&W singer; a Playboy
playmate role was briefly considered, and although she looked pretty good
in Barbra Underwire's black leather bra and Lindsey's white bikini, neither
offered much potential for an interesting epic role. I really wanted to
put her in the primeval world genre, and the black-haired pic and her high
cheekbones suggested that she could be a woman of considerable power and
influence (Jezebel, but not the Jezebel) or some kind of evil stepmother
-- a take-off on the Disney villains thing. My "Little Sister"
figure seemed a likely prospect for being burdened with this kind of familial
baggage, plus she had a type of costuming that I haven't done to death.
Since my soldering pencil was out, I started snipping, bending and soldering
wires and this is the result-- once again, I avoided firing up my sewing
machine!
I'm not gonna deny that she borrows a bit from Princess Aura (Priscilla
Lawson) from the old B&W "Flash Gordon" serials-- the headress and face
with big black hair do that. The torture bra is reminiscent of something
out of Edgar Rice Burrough's "John Carter - Warlord of Mars", as depicted
by numerous artists including Frank Frazetta. Even though both of those
take place in spacey alien settings, I think the look works for primeval
fantasy too. I just have to remember not to give her a ray gun.
One of the cool things about wire creations is that you can easily build
on them. I wanted the bra straps to feed through the shoulder piece so I
soldered a pair of threading loops on each shoulder. The shoulder piece
is set to accept a cape (a possibility...) and the bra could be dressed
up by hanging chains from the underside. If I were more adventurous with
the design, elaborate sleeve hoops and all sorts of bizarre embellishments
could be added.
The hardest part has been trying to figure out what to do about those
damn elbow and knee hinges. The mesh material is an attempt to tone down
the knees, but it looks hideous and really doesn't work. I think it's gonna
go bye-bye, and I'll try sheer next. I've test fitted black arm coverings
(as well as knee-high boots), but to my eye, they upset the costuming's
visual balance, In the overall context, the arms look best naked, but the
hinges are a major turn-off. I have no idea what I'm gonna do about it.
Similarly, the forearms peek out from a bracelet open "sleeve"-- the material
is attached to the upper arm bracelet, but open where the forearms would
bend out, just enough to hide the hinge. The material can be positioned
so that it fully covers the arms when they're straight, or opened slightly
and folded back, like a shawl.
The effect of all this drapery is similar to a flowing robe. I think it
goes better with the role of this figure as an older stepmother/queen--
age bringing modesty and a more conservative fashion sense, right? (Just
ignore the superunderwired torture bra...)
The figure was named "Jezebel" after-the-fact (which makes perfect sense
given that I didn't know who she would be when the project started). This
is a somewhat controversial name due to its historical and language connotations.
She isn't intended to be the Jezebel of the Hebrew bible, but some
of those traits fit with the implied "character" of this figure's role.
She's a woman who's used her physical attributes, intellect and willpower
to achieve considerable power and influence. She's probably not a warm
and caring person, but you don't climb to the top of the dungheap without
stepping on a few backs. As I've mentioned in another article, dolls don't
have personalities and aren't evil or good, so a shallow level of exaggerated
stereotyping, built upon our cultural heritage, gives depth to the character
of the lifeless doll.
Yeah, I like redheads...
and naked dolls with tweezers;
With huge plastic boobs and clean-shaven pubes,
she's the kinda gal who fits in your freezer.
With her naturally fake locks and her nipples hard like rocks,
she makes a deep impression when you squeeze her.
With those seams in her legs, she's sure to bear no eggs
and there isn't any point in trying to please her.
But no matter what they say, she will never run away
and pick up sexually transmitted diseases from junkie geezers.
She's just a plastic doll, standing naked, standing tall
and she's wielding a pair of pointed tweezers.
Because
it was easier, I reworked the original Svetlana "Via Borracho" head instead
of creating an articulated neck/head from the PB figure (deferring this
job for the 2nd Svetlana figure). I didn't use this head for the figure
which ended up being "Bunny" because I didn't want to risk it for my experiment
with articulated eyeballs-- in case things didn't go well. I got over
that, but these backfitted eyeballs aren't equipped with the articulation
mechanism. I tried, but adjusting and fitting the mechanism was simply
too aggravating and this simplification made positioning easier and gave
a better fit without gaps. It really got down to whether I wanted the
articulation or well-fitted gap-less eyes with corneal humps.
05/21/02- Here's a costuming idea
or fashion disaster, or perhaps both at once. I spent an unproductive Saturday
wracking my brain for costuming ideas and by mid afternoon, I was feeling
awfully frustrated. The bad thing about thinking is that it takes as much
time as actually doing something, but without producing anything tangible.
Gee... that wasn't too hard after all.
I'd have preferred a slightly more translucent material, but it's slightly
translucent as you can see from the half-covered knee hinge, but opaque
enough to conceal the elbow hinge. The idea is to distribute the coloration
& show flesh over the whole the figure, concealing things like the knee
joints conditionally-- the joints can still be visible depending on how
the material's positioned, but it's more subtle than having both joints
staring at you in plain view. Because you can have some flesh peek out,
it's not as oppressive as having the bottom half of the figure a solid black.
PART 2